Clarksdale to Tunica MS – Mississippi Blues Trail

by Mauka · Published March 6, 2024 · Updated April 23, 2024

CLARKSDALE to TUNICA, MS:
A Day Trip Adventure

Following describes our day trip from Clarksdale up to Tunica and back, and let me tell you, it was amazing.

Our first stop was at Stovall, where the legendary Muddy Waters once lived.
As we walked around the cabin site and took in the scenery that inspired some of his greatest songs, we couldn’t help but feel an overwhelming sense of nostalgia for the days when he roamed these very grounds.
But our visit to Stovall didn’t end there. It turns out that Colonel William Howard Stovall, who owned the plantation, was also a World War I flying ace.
Talk about an eerie coincidence, a low flying plane was circling above us.

Next up was Friar’s Point, a charming little town with not much to see now.

Just use your imagination and you can almost hear the soulful tunes coming from street corners and storefronts as blues artists like Robert Johnson and
Charley Patton played for tips.
It’s amazing to think about how such small towns played such a big role in shaping the iconic genre of blues music.

Our final stop before heading back to Clarksdale was Tunica – now this was more of a lively scene!

The Blues Museum caught our attention immediately and we were pleasantly surprised by how well put together it was. The staff were also incredibly friendly and helpful, making our visit all the more enjoyable.
Of course, no visit to Tunica would be complete without stopping at the famous Hollywood Café or trying your luck at one of the casinos. Although, we ate at the Hollywood Café we did not make it to the casino.

Tunica, MS Delta Blues Museum

All in all, it was an amazing day trip filled with blues music, and history lessons.
So if you ever find yourself in Clarksdale, make sure to venture out beyond its borders –
there’s so much to see and experience just a short drive away. Lets keep the blues alive!

CLARKSDALE to TUNICA, MS: Stovall Plantation

Historic info:

Did you know, Muddy Waters was born in or near Rolling Fork but moved to Stovall Plantation with his Grandma at the age of 3.
He lived and worked at the Stovall Plantation for 30 years until he moved to Chicago in pursuit of a musical career.

Firstly, before moving to Chicago, Waters entertained field hands at his house, which served as a juke joint, and he also played at social functions for the Stovalls’.
Notably, two of Waters’ recordings, “Burr Clover Farm Blues” and “Burr Clover Blues,” paid tribute to plantation owner Colonel William Howard Stovall (1895-1970) for his invention of the burr clover seed harvester in 1935.
In 1941, Musicologist Alan Lomax recorded Muddy’s 1^st recording on the front porch of the sharecropper shack Muddy lived in here on Stovall Plantation for the Library of Congress.
Also, Waters’ cousin, The Reverend Willie Morganfield, was born (1927) on the Stovall plantation eventually becoming a popular gospel recording artist in the 1960s.
Another blues singer and pianist, Eddie Boyd born (1914) on Stovall, wrote the classic “Five Long Years,” a No. 1 rhythm & blues hit in 1952.
And yet, another Stovall resident, blues bassist David “Pecan” Porter, later lived in the house that Muddy Waters had earlier occupied.

In the 1980s, a sharecropper shack sat abandoned and neglected.
However, in 1987, guitarist Billy Gibbons from Z.Z. Top had a brilliant idea
to repurpose the worn planks of the house into unique “Muddywood” guitars.
The band then used these special instruments to raise awareness and funds
for the Delta Blues Museum. Their efforts not only brought attention to
a cultural landmark, but also showcased creativity and generosity
within the music community.

Clarksdale: Stovall Farms location map

The Blues Marker at Stovall Farm commemorates the spot where Muddy Waters’
house once stood. While the original house has been relocated to the
Delta Blues Museum, the significance of this location remains in blues history.
It was here that Muddy Waters made his first recordings with Alan Lomax in 1941-42,
solidifying his legacy as a pioneer in the blues genre. This site stands as
a reminder of the impact and influence of Muddy Waters
and his contributions to music.

Outside of Clarksdale is Stovall Farms CLARKSDALE to TUNICA, MS: Friar’s Point

Friars Point, a town founded in 1836 on the banks of the Mississippi River, has a rich history as one of the largest cotton shipping centers in the southern region.
Originally known as Farrar’s Point, it was officially incorporated in 1852 and later renamed in honor of Robert Friar, an influential early settler and legislator.
Despite its small size, Friars Point has played a significant role in the development of agriculture and commerce in the United States.

Muddy Waters Remembers:

In his recollection, blues legend Muddy Waters remembered the only time he
witnessed Robert Johnson perform. It was on the front porch of Hirsberg’s Drugstore
in Friars Point, and a large crowd had gathered around the musician
as he played with remarkable energy. Despite being drawn to watch him play,
Waters admitted that he left soon after because Johnson’s raw talent
and intensity made him “a dangerous man.” In one of his songs from 1937,
“Traveling Riverside Blues,” Johnson sang about returning to Friars Point
and enjoying a night full of barrelhouse music. He also mentioned having
romantic interests in different cities but being irresistibly drawn
back to his “Friars Point rider” who always got the best of him.

Also notable, the town has been written about by famous Mississippi writers Tennessee Williams and William Faulkner.
Additionally, it also is the birthplace of country music legend Conway Twitty.

Who was Conway Twitty?

Conway Twitty, born as Harold Lloyd Henkins in Friars Point to a ferryboat captain, was an American singer who first gained fame with his bluesy rockabilly style.
However, it was in the 1970’s that he truly made a name for himself in country music with fifty-five No. 1 singles, including several self-written and duets with his partner Loretta Lynn.
His performances were filled with sensuality, drama and raw emotion that captivated audiences both live and on record.
His dedicated fan base even gave him the title of “The High Priest of Country Music.”

Conway Twitty’s legacy continues to live on in the hearts of country music lovers around the world.

Clarksdale to Tunica MS: ROBERT LEE “NIGHTHAWK” McCollum in Friar’s Point
One of the Delta’s most influential blues guitarists.

Born in 1909, Nighthawk was a master of the guitar and harmonica, and his music continues to inspire generations even after his passing in 1967.
Although he traveled often, from Chicago to St. Louis to Memphis and beyond, Nighthawk always had a special connection with Friar’s Point in the Delta. It was a place he called home and returned to time and time again.
Now, you may have noticed that Nighthawk went by different names throughout his career. In fact, he changed his name just as much as he changed addresses! From Robert Lee McCoy on one of his famous records “Prowling Night-Hawk”, to “Rambling Bob” – Nighthawk truly embodied the spirit of the blues.
But it wasn’t just his name that captured attention; it was also his incredible talent on the guitar. Like many other blues artists of his time, Nighthawk would perform at juke joints, house parties, and even on street corners outside of stores. But what really set him apart was not just his recordings but also his radio broadcasts on WROX in Clarksdale and KFFA in Helena, Arkansas.

Many people described Nighthawk’s playing style as unique because he used a brass pipe to slide along the frets of his guitar,
creating an unforgettable sliding sound. His best-known records such as “Annie Lee Blues,” “Black Angel Blues,” and “The Moon is R” are still beloved by blues fans worldwide.

It’s no wonder why B.B. King named Robert Nighthawk as one of his top ten favorite guitarists. His influence can be felt in countless musicians’ work even today.

CLARKSDALE to TUNICA, MS: More Friar’s Point History

During the cotton boom in Friars Point, life was bustling with river commerce and plentiful shopping opportunities.

The downtown area was always alive with the sounds of music as merchants hired musicians to attract customers to their stores. These talented musicians also found a way to make some extra money by setting up in front of shops and playing for tips from passersby.
Among these performers, Robert Johnson stood out for his ability to draw large crowds, as noted by Muddy Waters. Friars Point truly thrived during this time, thanks in part to the lively atmosphere created by these skilled musicians.
Furthermore, the Sons of Wonder gospel group and blues harmonica players Robert Diggs and Blind Mississippi Morris Cummings were other African American performers based in Friars Point.

Clarksdale to Tunica MS: Friar's Point location map

CLARKSDALE to TUNICA, MS: Friar’s Point History, cont.

During the Civil War, Union troops were present in Friars Point, using it as a strategic location for their headquarters
and as a gathering spot for ships before attacking Vicksburg.
The town was also home to Confederate General James L. Alcorn, who later became governor.

In the 1880s, notorious train robber and gunman Jesse James made a quick stop in Friars Point, visiting the Methodist minister and spending some time at the local saloon before disappearing the next morning.
In 1887, the Yazoo and Mississippi Valley Railroad was completed to Friars Point, bringing more accessibility to the town.
However, tragedy struck in 1888 when the county jail was destroyed by fire, resulting in the deaths of five prisoners.
Even famous aviator Charles Lindbergh had an interesting encounter with Friars Point when he ran out of gas while flying over it in 1924 and landed at a place he called “The Haunted House”.
During the 1930s, there was ferry service between Friars Point and Helena, Arkansas, offering transportation for cars and passengers at affordable prices.
In 1998, Susan Tedeschi’s album “Just Won’t Burn” included the song “Friars Point”.

Time magazine wrote in 2013:
“Once a thriving port town and the county seat, economic decline has left Friars Point with one elementary school, a few churches, a city hall, a post office, a small general store, a museum that opens only sporadically, a nightclub called “Show T Boat”, where a man was shot to death in 2011, and a bank. The town no longer has a doctor or health clinic, a drug store, a sit-down restaurant, a recreational center, a library, or any businesses to speak of. Kids travel 15 miles to Clarksdale for junior and senior high school.”

TUNICA, MS

HARDFACE CLANTON, Tunica’s most notable resident!

Firstly, Harold “Hardface” Clanton was an African American businessman and entrepreneur who made a name for himself in Tunica, Mississippi. Despite growing up on a farm with limited education, Clanton’s experience in the army introduced him to the world of gambling and sparked his entrepreneurial spirit.
Secondly, With his winnings from fellow servicemen, Clanton opened Harold’s Café and “The Barn” where he offered gambling, bootleg liquor, and live blues music. He even expanded his business ventures to cafes in neighboring West Memphis.
Known for his love of the dice game kotch or cotc, Clanton became a legend across the country with nicknames like “Hardface” for his intense focus during poker games.
He was also affectionately referred to as “The Black Sheriff” of Tunica and hailed as the town’s “First Black Millionaire”, despite never holding an official title.
Notably, Clanton’s legacy lives on as a successful African American entrepreneur who contributed greatly to the culture and economy of Tunica.

Blues artists that provided entertainment for Hardface and his clientele were:
B. B. King, Bobby Bland, Howlin’ Wolf, Ike Turner, Albert King,
Sonny Boy Williamson No. 2, Robert Nighthawk, Frank Frost, Houston Stackhouse, and many others.

Hardface, a well-known figure in the gambling world, had a reputation that extended from Las Vegas to Cicero, Illinois – a suburb of Chicago. Many people traveled to Tunica County to gamble, bringing with them an influx of money and job opportunities for the locals.
Hardface’s influence was so great that he played a major role in legalizing casino gambling along the Mississippi River in 1991 – making Tunica County the first county to do so.
Unfortunately, Hardface passed away on June 4, 1982. His funeral was held at Rosa Fort High School gymnasium and was attended by many who wanted to pay their respects to this influential figure.
Thanks to Hardface’s legacy, Tunica County remains a popular destination for gamblers and continues to thrive as a result of his business dealings.

Tunica Blues Markers location map

Clarksdale to Tunica MS: HOLLYWOOD CAFE

The Hollywood Café, once located in Hollywood, MS and then moved to Tunica Resorts, has a rich history as it was originally a plantation commissary.
Renowned blues musician Son House graced the stage of this establishment when it was still a commissary.
In 1969, the café transitioned into a bar, later began offering dinner with live music and currently still exists as a popular dining spot serving their specialty dish of fried pickles.
The Hollywood Café continues to be an important part of the community’s history and culture even today.

Pianist Muriel Wilkins had been a regular performer at the Hollywood Café for many years,
showcasing her diverse repertoire from standards to spirituals.

In 1985, singer-songwriter Marc Cohn joined her on stage and this experience inspired him to write his hit song “Walking in Memphis” which immortalized Wilkins and the iconic Hollywood Café.
The café was also known as a popular setting for blues performances, and was featured on the BBC television program “The Friendly Invasion” in 1973. The show highlighted talented musicians such as Robert “Bilbo” Walker, Big Jack Johnson, Sam Carr, Joe Willie Wilkins, Houston Stackhouse, Sonny “Harmonica” Blakes, Melvin Lee, and Homer Jackson from both Clarksdale and Memphis.
In 1983, the Hollywood was destroyed in a fire.
In 1984, the business was sold and reopened in Robinsonville.

In 2007, B.B. King and Governor Haley Barbour attended a blues event at the Hollywood Café.

During this event AT&T presented a $500,000 donation to the B.B. King Museum and Delta Interpretive Center.
Performances were made by Jackson guitarist Jesse Robinson and the young Tupelo blues band Homemade Jamz.

Tunica Blues Marker location map for Tunica Resorts

Clarksdale to Tunica MS: JAMES COTTON
A renowned blues harmonica player, also known as “Mr. Superharp,” who captivated audiences with his energetic performances.

Born on the Bonnie Blue plantation in Mississippi on July 1, 1935, Cotton’s passion for music started at a young age when his mother gave him a harmonica to play with. Which he used to imitate the sounds of trains and cackling hens.
Despite opposition from his religious parents, he pursued his love for music and found mentorship in Sonny Boy Williamson No. 2, a harmonica master from Helena, Arkansas.
Growing up with his uncle who introduced him to bootleg whiskey, gambling, and blues music, Cotton developed a deep appreciation for the genre. His uncle also introduced him to Sonny Boy Williamson, who became a mentor figure and welcomed James into his home where he lived for several years.
Eventually moving from Helena, Arkansas to West Memphis with Williamson’s band, Cotton continued to hone his skills and eventually became a radio broadcaster himself.
Although Cotton continued to perform with blues artists Howlin’ Wolf, Willie Nix, and others, he worked other jobs like an ice hauler, short order cook, shoeshine boy, and dump truck driver.
Cotton’s dedication to his craft led him to join Muddy Waters’ band in Chicago for twelve years before leaving to form his own band. This move earned him the nickname “Mr. Superharp” and solidified his status as one of the world’s most popular blues harmonica players.
Through hard work and determination, James Cotton became an icon in the world of blues music with his exceptional talent and showmanship garnering adoration from fans worldwide.

James Cotton Musical Timeline:

In 1952, James cotton made his first studio appearance at Sam Phillips’s Memphis Recording Service playing harmonica on Wolf’s Chess recording “Saddle My Pony.”
In 1953-54, Phillips called Cotton back into the studio to cut his first tracks as a singer for Sun Records, including “Straighten Up Baby” and “Cotton Crop Blues.”
In 1954, Muddy Waters needed a harmonica player to replace Junior Wells, so Waters hired Cotton. During his years with Muddy Waters, Cotton continued to record singles and albums on his own.
In 1961, Cotton recorded two records made in England.
In 1966, Cotton formed the James Cotton Blues Band.
In the 1990s, throat surgery forced him to curtail his singing.
1996, he won the Grammy for Best Traditional Blues Album with his CD Deep in the Blues.
in 2006, he was inducted into the Blues Hall of Fame.

As one of the world’s premier blues harmonicists, known for his explosive style
James Cotton was a recipient of several Blues Music Awards.

Clarksdale to Tunica MS: Blues Marker for HIGHWAY 61 BLUES (North)

Whereas, the famous Highway 61, also known as the “blues highway,” holds significant historical and cultural importance in American music.
Moreover, it served as a major source of inspiration for many blues artists and stretched from New Orleans to the Canadian border, passing through several towns such as Baton Rouge, Natchez, Vicksburg, Leland, Cleveland, Clarksdale, and Tunica in Mississippi.
Since this iconic road was a symbol of freedom and the prospect of a better life elsewhere it is often referenced in blues lyrics.
Today, the original Highway 61 remains just west of the newer route, preserving its significance in music history.

Notably, some of the blues artists living near Hwy 61 were
B. B. King, Robert Johnson, Charley Patton, Son House,
Muddy Waters, Howlin’ Wolf, Sonny Boy Williamson No. 2 (Rice Miller),
Ike Turner, Robert Nighthawk, Sunnyland Slim,
Honeyboy Edwards, Sam Cooke, James Cotton,
Jimmy Reed, and Junior Parker.

“Highway 61 Blues” recordings also made in the 1930s:

In 1932, Roosevelt Sykes recorded the first song about the road “Highway 61 Blues.”
In 1933, two Memphis bluesmen, Jack Kelly and Will Batts, recorded “Highway No. 61 Blues.”
Also, in 1933, the Tupelo-born Sparks Brothers recorded “61 Highway.” “Highway 61,” a sermon recorded by “Hallelujah Joe” McCoy.
“Highway 61” was recorded by Jesse James.
“Highway 61 Blues”, recorded by Sampson Pittman, for Alan Lomax for the Library of Congress.
In 1947, Gatemouth Moore recorded a jump blues version of “Highway 61 Blues.”
In 1956, pianist Sunnyland Slim (Albert Luandrew) recorded “Highway 61.”
In 1965, Bob Dylan recorded his influential album “Highway 61 Revisited” bringing a renewed interest in Highway 61.

Other traditional Mississippi blues artists that have
recorded songs about Highway 61 include:
James “Son” Thomas, “Honeyboy” Edwards, Big Joe Williams,
Charlie Musselwhite, Eddie Shaw, Johnny Young, Eddie Burns,
and Mississippi Fred McDowell.

Blues Marker for Hwy 61

Clarksdale to Tunica MS: EDDIE JAMES “SON” HOUSE
A multi-talented musician, known for his unique blend of blues and gospel music.

Born in 1902, he lived in the Robinsonville-Lake Cormorant area during the 1930s and ’40s, where he became a major influence on iconic artists such as Robert Johnson and Muddy Waters.
House’s performances were characterized by his mesmerizing guitar skills and powerful vocals. He often showcased his uninhibited and forceful style of jazz or blues, also known as “barrelhousing.”
However, despite being known for his energetic performances, House also had a strong connection to gospel music and occasionally sang a cappella songs during his shows.
Although initially playing for local Juke Joint audiences, House’s fame grew over the years, making him one of the most renowned blues artists during the 1960s “blues revival.”
He continued to perform sporadically until his passing in 1988 at his home in Detroit, Michigan. House is buried there with his wife of 54 years.
Through his unique musical style and impactful performances, Son House left an indelible mark on the world of blues music and continues to be celebrated as one of its preeminent artists.

Son House Musical Timeline:

Firstly, in 1930, House first recorded for the Paramount label in 1930.
Secondly, in 1941, he was recorded for a Fisk University-Library of Congress study led by Alan Lomax and John Work III.
Thirdly, in 1942, House’s last recording in Mississippi was for a second Library of Congress session in Robinsonville.
Additionally, in 1943 House retired from music and moved to Rochester, New York.
Then in 1965 House was rediscovered and was booked as the closing act at festivals and he recorded his most notable album, “Father of Folk Blues.”

Son House blues marker in Tunica