Greenwood MS Blues Trail – Mississippi Blues Trail

by Mauka · Published March 6, 2024 · Updated April 25, 2024

GREENWOOD, MS
BLUES TRAIL

Greenwood has an impressive selection of activities and sights to explore. This charming town is perfect for spending a couple of days, but if you’re on a tight schedule like we were, even a few hours can provide some great experiences.
We mainly drove around to see the various markers and stopped for lunch at the delicious Crystal Grill.
Of course, our visit wouldn’t have been complete without checking out other historical sites as well. And if you happen to be heading north, be sure not to miss the gravesite of renowned blues musician Robert Johnson in Greenwood – it’s a must-see for any fan.
Don’t forget to take a look at the page that goes into detail about all of Greenwoods Point of Interest!

Here’s a brief rundown on the Blues Markers that will definitely grab your interest!
You’ll discover that these markers are often situated on important historical sites,
giving them an extra dose of fascination.
And with most of these markers found in quaint little towns,
tracking them down is a breeze.

Greenwood MS Blues Trail – BAPTIST TOWN

Baptist Town, rooted deeply in the vibrant culture of the Mississippi Delta, is a neighborhood located in Greenwood.
It was established in the 1800s as one of the first areas where African Americans were able to own property after slavery ended.
The community quickly became home to many African American workers who were heavily involved in cotton production during that era. This area provided a comforting refuge for musicians looking to escape the strenuous labor of the cotton fields.
Interestingly, two legendary blues singers, Robert Johnson and Honeyboy Edwards, frequented Baptist Town and could often be found performing at the nearby Three Forks juke joint.

According to Honeyboy Edwards, Baptist Town was where
Robert Johnson spent his final days
and it is said that his grave can be found just outside of Greenwood.
Edwards believed that Johnson
may have been killed at a local juke joint by either a jealous lover or
her husband in the year 1938.

The hustle and bustle of McLaurin Street was a gathering spot for Greenwood’s African American community. Meanwhile, over on Johnson Street, musicians could often be found serenading passersby on the street or performing at lively house parties.
The sounds of blues and gospel music were beloved by the people of Greenwood, so much so that when the nightclubs on McLaurin Street shut down for the evening, the party didn’t stop. Instead, folks would make their way to nearby plantations or even venture outside of town to keep dancing and grooving to their favorite tunes.
One notable resident of McLaurin Street was guitarist Tommy McClennan, a highly regarded blues artist who called Greenwood home. Joining him in representing the area’s musical talents were John William “Man” Hurt from Baptist Town, who played guitar for the Friendly Four gospel group, and Harvie Cook, another skilled guitarist.
Of course, there were many other talented blues performers who hailed from Greenwood as well.

Greenwood Blues Trail Map location for Baptist Town

Greenwood MS Blues Trail – BLUES DEEJAYS

Back in the early 1930s, a radio station called WSBC in Chicago was home to an African American named Jack L. Cooper who hosted the popular “All-Negro Hour,” featuring live music. This groundbreaking show is often credited with creating the format that deejays still use today.
As radio became the primary way for people to listen to music in the 1940s, disc jockeys quickly became the voices of artists by introducing their songs on air and helping them gain popularity.
These DJs were known for their vibrant personalities and ability to curate engaging playlists, as well as promote advertisements and announcements. But being a DJ wasn’t just about playing good music – it was also about standing out from the crowd.
Radio stations actively sought out deejays with colorful personalities in order to attract more listeners. One example of this is Ruben Hughes, who started his career as a blues show promoter at just 16 years old. In 1988, he purchased WGNL in Greenwood and transformed it into one of the most influential radio stations in the Delta region.
Mississippi was also home to many early African American deejays such as Early Wright, Bruce Payne, Charles Evers, Ike Turner, Sherman “Blues” Johnson, and Jobie Martin. Together, they helped shape and define the role of a disc jockey through their passion for music and dedication to their craft.

Greenwood Blues Trail Map location for Blues Deejays

Greenwood MS Blues Trail – ELKS LODGE

Elks Hart Lodge No. 640 served as a crucial hub for rhythm and blues in the Delta region throughout the 1940s, ’50s, and ’60s.
Originally founded as part of the Improved Benevolent Protective Order of Elks of the World (IBPOEW) in Ohio in 1898, this organization was also known as the “Black Elks” due to its exclusion of African Americans from the BPOE.
By 1899, the Mississippi chapter of the IBPOEW had been established with a strong focus on promoting values such as “Charity, Justice, Brotherly and Sisterly Love and Fidelity.”
In 1927, they furthered their efforts by forming a Civil Rights Commission to educate members about economic and civil rights. These actions would later lay an important foundation for civil rights activism during the era.
The lodges of the IBPOEW played a vital role in advancing civil rights movements by providing spaces for political, social, and economic gatherings.

This was particularly evident in Greenwood where the Elks Hall
became a meeting place for local activist groups
like Student Nonviolent Coordinating Committee (SNCC) in 1962.,
organized by the local civil rights activist and
Elk member Cleveland Jordan.
The dedicated work carried out by civil rights activists
within these halls was instrumental
in bringing about change for African Americans across the country.

The IBPOEW played an important role in providing venues for touring blues and R&B artists from the 1940s through the ’90s.
Artists performing at the Greenwood lodge included: B. B. King, T-Bone Walker, Ike and Tina Turner, James Brown, Percy Mayfield, “Little” Junior Parker, Roy Brown, Ruth Brown, Bobby “Blue” Bland, Lightnin’ Hopkins, Big Mama Thornton, Memphis Slim, Fats Domino, Lloyd Price, Muddy Waters, John Lee Hooker, Little Milton, the Drifters, Clyde McPhatter, Johnny Ace, the Five Royales, Solomon Burke, Brook Benton, Ivory Joe Hunter, Smiley Lewis, Etta James, Charles Brown, Ernie K-Doe, Bobby Rush, Lee “Shot” Williams, and Chick Willis.

Greenwood Blues Trail Map location for Elks Lodge

Greenwood MS Blues Trail – FURRY LEWIS

Walter “Furry” Lewis (c. 1899-1981), a native of Greenwood,
was among the first blues guitarists to ever be recorded.
He made his early recordings in Chicago in 1927 and is highly regarded
as a prime example of early blues music.

Lewis’ family moved to Memphis when he was just a young boy, and it was there that he developed a love for music and began playing as a teenager.
Soon enough, he became a favorite among blues fans in Memphis, eventually landing many recording opportunities and even appearing on popular TV shows and movies. While Lewis mostly performed solo, he occasionally played with W.C. Handy, who had gifted him with his very first quality guitar.
Like many other blues musicians of his time, Furry would play at parties, saloons, and on street corners to earn some extra cash. However, despite his musical talent, it wasn’t enough to make a living off of initially. Thus, Furry worked various odd jobs for the city of Memphis including being a street sweeper, garbageman, and night watchman.
But by the 1960s and 1970s, Lewis’ career began to take off. He opened for big names like the Rolling Stones and received recognition from fellow artists such as Joni Mitchell who wrote
“Furry Sings the Blues” in tribute to him. Even Jimi Hendrix himself acknowledged Lewis’ incredible talent.
Known as a showman and humorist he eventually became a celebrated artist.
Lewis died on September 14, 1981. He was elected to the Blues Hall of Fame in 2012.

Furry Lewis blues marker location

Greenwood MS Blues Trail – GUITAR SLIM

Eddie Lee Jones, also known as “Guitar Slim,” was born on December 10, 1926 in Greenwood.
In his hometown, he was known for his impressive skills as a choir boy turned jitterbug dancer and had nicknames such as “Limber Leg Eddie” or “Rubber Legs.” He drew inspiration from renowned guitarist Robert Nighthawk, but it was Gatemouth Brown’s style that truly influenced him.
After serving in World War II, Jones returned home to New Orleans where he made a name for himself in the blues world.
His hit song “Things That I Used To Do” became the biggest rhythm & blues hit of 1954 and was ranked as one of the top three R&B records of the entire decade by Billboard magazine.
Jones’ mastery of the guitar earned him the nickname “Guitar Slim.” With his infectious energy and soulful singing, Guitar Slim never failed to thrill audiences. He had a charming flamboyant style which included wearing brightly colored suits and shoes that matched, and sometimes even dying his hair to match as well.
He was also known for incorporating dancing acrobatics into his performances while playing guitar, creating an electrifying experience for his fans.
Even though he lived a wild personal life, the lyrics of his songs revealed a more serious side to him. He believed that they were honest reflections of life and its earthly truths.
Tragically, Guitar Slim passed away from pneumonia in New York City on February 7, 1959 at either 32 or 34 years old. However, his legacy lives on as he was posthumously inducted into the Blues Hall of Fame in 2007.

The following musicians were influenced by Eddie Lee “Guitar Slim” Jones:
Buddy Guy, Chick Willis, and Lonnie Brooks to Frank Zappa,
Stevie Ray Vaughan, and Billy Gibbons,
and Jimi Hendrix for the ferocious way he attacked his guitar.

Guitar Slim blues marker location

Greenwood MS Blues Trail – HUBERT SUMLIN

Hubert Sumlin (1931-2011) was born on the Pillow Plantation in Greenwood. His churchgoing mother would chastise him for playing the blues. Then she heard him play some blues licks in church, winning her over.
Sumlin started performing the blues with harmonica musician James Cotton when they were in their teens. The two remained lifelong friends. Sumlin parted ways with Cotton after being offered a spot in Howlin’ Wolf’s band in Chicago.
From 1954 to 1976 Howlin’ Wolf was influential in Sumlin’s life not only as his employer but also as a father figure. Wolf would fire Sumlin then rehire him on numerous occasions. One time Sumlin went so far as to join the band of Wolf’s main rival, Muddy Waters.

In 1964 Sumlin and Wolf toured Europe.
Sumlin’s only 45 rpm single came from an acoustic blues session recorded in England.
He also recorded albums for labels in France, Germany, Argentina, and the United States.

After the passing of Howlin’ Wolf, Hubert Sumlin’s career was finally able to reach newfound heights. In 2003, Rolling Stone magazine recognized his immense talent by naming him one of “The 100 Greatest Guitarists of All Time.”
Sadly, Sumlin passed away on December 4th, 2011 in Homewood, IL. Fortunately, Mick Jagger and Keith Richards graciously covered the costs for his funeral.
His talent was admired by many, including Jimi Hendrix and Stevie Ray Vaughan who considered him a favorite. He shared stages with legendary artists such as Eric Clapton, the Rolling Stones, Santana, Aerosmith and many others throughout his career.
One of Hubert’s most memorable moments was when he collaborated with Clapton, Keith Richards, Levon Helm and James Cotton on his award-winning album “About Them Shoes.” It’s clear that Hubert Sumlin’s legacy lives on through his incredible music and the admiration of fellow musicians.

Hubert Sumlin’s awards include:
Handy Award Winner 2007, 2008
Blues Hall of Fame induction 2008
MS Blues Marker unveiling 2008 in Greenwood.

Hubert Sumlin blues marker location

Greenwood MS Blues Trail – ROBERT JOHNSON GRAVESITE

Let me tell you about the incredible Robert Johnson,
a Mississippi native born in Hazlehurst in 1911.
He was a true legend of Delta blues music and his influence is still felt today.

One of the key figures who shaped Johnson’s unique and modern style was local bluesman Ike Zinnerman.
Johnson’s passion for music led him on a journey around the Delta region, as well as to cities like Memphis, St. Louis, Chicago, Detroit, New York, and even Canada. He never stayed in one place for too long, constantly searching for new inspiration.
His impact on the music scene is immeasurable – countless blues and rock musicians have been influenced by Johnson’s work. From Elmore James to Eric Clapton, the Rolling Stones to Led Zeppelin, many artists have included Johnson’s songs in their recordings and performances. Classics such as “Sweet Home Chicago” and “Dust My Broom” are just a couple of examples of his enduring popularity.
Despite his immense talent, Johnson only recorded 29 songs during two sessions in 1936 and 1937.
Tragically, he passed away at the young age of 27 before he could truly reach his full potential. In fact, he had been scheduled to perform at Carnegie Hall as part of John Hammond’s “From Spirituals to Swing” concert series in 1938 but passed away on Star of the West plantation before that event could take place.
Today, we remember Robert Johnson as an incredibly talented musician who left an indelible mark on the world of blues music. Even though his time with us was short-lived, his legacy lives on through his unforgettable recordings and enduring influence on generations of musicians.
It is said that he was poisoned by the enraged husband of a woman he was involved with.

It has been said that Johnson made a deal with the devil to gain his
extraordinary guitar-playing abilities at a crossroads near Clarksdale.
This story is often reinforced by the lyrics of his songs
“Hellhound on My Trail” and “Me and the Devil Blues”,
which allude to witchcraft and Satan. Today, there is a memorial for
Robert Johnson at Little Zion Church in Greenwood, where it is believed he is buried.

Greenwood Blues Trail Map location for Robert Johnson's gravesite

Greenwood MS Blues Trail – WGRM

Back in the 1940s, WGRM was one of the coolest radio stations broadcasting in Mississippi. Every Sunday, people would tune in to catch live performances of gospel music. And let me tell you, one group that really stood out was The Famous St. John’s Gospel Singers from Inverness, Mississippi, with none other than Riley King on guitar and vocals.
Fun fact: did you know that Riley went on to be known as B.B. King while he was working in Memphis? But here’s something interesting about him – his true love for blues music actually came from a place of frustration. You see, his bandmates were a little hesitant about turning their musical talents into a full-time career. So Riley decided to make a change and moved to Memphis in 1948. Pretty cool move, right?
And guess what – he landed himself a job as a disc jockey at WDIA, which, by the way, was the first all African American radio station at that time!

In the 1950s, WGRM made its way to North Greenwood
and even served as a recording studio!
The talented Matt Cockrell and L. C. “Lonnie the Cat” Cation
joined forces with the Hines band,
featuring the legendary Ike Turner on piano, to record their music in this very spot.

Greenwood Blues Trail WGRM location in Greenwood, MS