Clarksdale MS Blues Trail – Mississippi Blues Trail

CLARKSDALE, MS
BLUES TRAIL

Clarksdale MS Blues Trail… Are you interested in blues music and history?
If so, you’ll love exploring the Blues Markers!
These markers are placed on historical sites throughout the towns,
adding to the intrigue of the experience.
And the best part?
Most of these towns are small, so it’s easy to find the markers and
enjoy the rich history of the blues.
So, what are you waiting for? Check out the ITINERARIES and
start your journey through the heart of the blues!

Clarksdale MS Blues Trail: BIG JACK JOHNSON

• Big Jack Johnson (1940-2011) was an iconic musician, known worldwide for his creative blues guitar playing and songwriting skills.
  
• He was a lifelong resident of Clarksdale, and his home base was Red’s Blues Club.
• What set Johnson apart was his ability to write about issues that affected both the local area and the world at large. He wrote songs about AIDS, Hurricane Katrina, and abortion, among other things. It was this unique perspective that made him stand out as one of the most creative lyricists of his time.
• Throughout his career, Johnson won several awards, and his own band was called B. J. & the Oilers. However, he was perhaps best known for his work with the Jelly Roll Kings, an iconic juke joint trio.
• Johnson was affectionately known as “The Oil Man” due to his day job as a truck driver for Shell Oil.
• Despite his success as a musician, he never lost touch with his roots and remained a humble, hardworking man.
• In his personal life, Johnson was a father of 13 children.

His legacy lives on, and his music continues to inspire
new generations of musicians and fans alike.

His accomplishments also include:

• An appearance in the 1992 film “Deep Blues”.
• An appearance in a locally produced 1991 video “Juke Joint Saturday Night”.
• Recordings for the Earwig, M.C., Rooster Blues, and Fat Possum labels.
• Self-released CDs backed by the Cornlickers.

He performed regularly at Red’s in Clarksdale in his later years.
Big Jack Johnson is buried at McLaurin Memorial Garden cemetery
on Highway 61.

Clarksdale MS Blues Trail: HOPSON PLANTATION

The Hopson Planting Company led the way in transitioning
from manual labor to mechanized cotton production.
The International Harvester Company partnered with Hopson
to experiment and perfect tractor-mounted cotton pickers.

• During World War II, tractor drivers played a crucial role in the production of cotton and were deemed essential workers. This meant they were exempt from being drafted into the war.
• Among those who were also exempt were talented blues musicians including Joe Willie “Pinetop” Perkins, B.B. King, Son House, and Muddy Waters. 
• In 1944, the use of machines for harvesting at Hopson proved to be successful in yielding a bountiful crop.
• As a result, this method was widely adopted in the South as it replaced traditional sharecropping practices.
• Unfortunately, this also led to many displaced workers losing their jobs.

In the Mississippi Delta cotton and the blues were united.
The cultivation of cotton required the labor of
African Americans as field hands.

• Some individuals with musical abilities were able to entertain their fellow workers on Saturday nights, earning more money than they would working in the fields.
• Some were fortunate enough to leave the laborious fieldwork behind and make a living by playing music.
• The talented blues pianist Joe Willie “Pinetop” Perkins was one of these lucky individuals, who had previously worked as a tractor driver for the Hopson Planting Company. He also performed regularly at nearby juke joints as a professional musician.
• Eventually, he left his life in the Delta behind and went on to have a successful music career, performing alongside renowned artists such as Muddy Waters and others for many years.

“Pinetop” became successful as a solo artist also.

Some of Joe Willie “PINETOP” Perkins accomplishments:

• Played with Lee Kizart and Robert Nighthawk
• Performed on the radio show King Biscuit Time with Sonny Boy Williamson No. 2
• He taught Ike Turner to play piano.

Clarksdale MS Blues Trail: DELTA BLUES MUSEUM

Dedicated to documenting the vast historical legacy of the Blues,
preserving the Blues of the past,
and exploring the new… this is a must stop on your tour.

• On January 31, 1979, the DELTA BLUES MUSEUM made its grand debut. This groundbreaking establishment was not only the first museum in Mississippi to honor music, but also the very first in the world to celebrate blues.
• Located conveniently across from Ground Zero Blues Club, it’s the perfect spot for visitors to soak up both history and live blues performances. 

A fun fact about the museum’s early days:

• In 1988, it faced some financial struggles. However, with a little help from ZZ Top, things turned around.
• Billy Gibbons, the band’s legendary guitarist, found some old boards that had fallen off of Muddy Waters’ former home on the Stovall Plantation. He used these boards to craft “Muddywood” guitars and sold them to raise money for the museum.
• To this day, one of these unique guitars is proudly displayed at the museum alongside Waters’ original house which was carefully taken apart and reconstructed for all to see thanks to permission from Stovall Plantation.

Clarksdale MS Blues Trail:
MUDDY WATER’S CABIN – Blues Marker is located on Stovall Farms

Muddy Waters, known as the king of Chicago blues,
was first recorded here, on the Stovall Plantation in 1941.

• Alan Lomax arranged for his portable recording equipment to be set up in the home of Muddy Waters, along with other local musicians. This was done at the request of Colonel William Howard Stovall, who wanted Waters to record two songs as a way of honoring him for inventing the burr clover seed harvester.
• In addition to being a recording location, Muddy’s cabin also functioned as a juke joint where he would entertain field hands. He was also known to perform at social gatherings held by the Stovall family.
• After Muddy moved out, blues bassist David “Pecan” Porter took over occupancy of the cabin and became well-known on the Clarksdale music scene.
• Unfortunately, once the cabin became vacant again it began to fall into disrepair, but it still attracted tourists who saw it as a shrine dedicated to Muddy Waters.

Clarksdale MS Blues Trail: IKE TURNER

• Ike Turner was born in the Riverton neighborhood of Clarksdale, where he started his music career. He began by taking piano lessons, but soon switched to learning by ear from blues pianist Pinetop Perkins.
• Ike’s talents were quickly noticed and he played at local venues like juke joints and even on WROX radio as part of Robert Nighthawk’s band. While working on the radio, Turner also pursued a passion for being a deejay before forming his own band, the Kings of Rhythm.
• He made sure to include musicians from Clarksdale in his group and together they traveled to Memphis to record some songs. Ike found success not just as a performer, but also as an arranger and producer for other artists and labels across the South, including back in his hometown of Clarksdale.
• One of his most notable achievements was co-writing and recording “Rocket 88” with Jackie Brenston at Sun Studios in Memphis. This song is often recognized as the first ever Rock N Roll song. 
• Sadly, Ike Turner passed away on December 12, 2007 while living in California. His impact on music history will always be remembered through his groundbreaking contributions to the blues and rock genres.

Sadly, his career was forever marked by the toxicity of his marriage to Tina Turner, struggles with drug addiction, and a stint in prison.
However, the blues community stepped in to mend his reputation
by inducting him into the Blues Rock & Roll Hall of Fame and recognizing him
with a Grammy for his final CD, “Risin With the Blues”, in 2007.

Clarksdale MS Blues Trail: RIVERSIDE HOTEL

• In its early days, the Riverside Hotel was known as the G.T. Thomas Hospital and provided care to African Americans in need.
• However, since 1944, this historic building has been owned and run by Mrs. Z.L. Hill, an incredible African American woman. Under her guidance, the Riverside Hotel has become a safe haven for traveling musicians, including legendary names like Sonny Boy Williamson II, Ike Turner, Robert Nighthawk and more. 
• Over the years, many famous artists have called the Riverside their “home away from home” while touring through the South. From Howlin’ Wolf to Muddy Waters to Sam Cooke to Jessie Mae, these talented individuals found comfort and hospitality at the Riverside Hotel. 
• But perhaps one of the biggest stars of all left a mark on this hotel forever – Bessie Smith. Sadly, Bessie was involved in a car accident while driving on Hwy 61 just outside Clarksdale. She was brought to the Riverside Hotel where she ultimately passed away from her injuries.
• Today, visitors can pay their respects at the very room where Bessie spent her final moments – a special shrine in honor of her incredible talent and legacy.

Ike Turner and Jackie Brenston wrote and
rehearsed “Rocket 88” at The Riverside Hotel.
John F. Kennedy, Jr., stayed here in 1991.

“Experience an opportunity to experience old-school Southern hospitality
and lay your hat where the bluesmen laid theirs.”

Clarksdale MS Blues Trail: SAM COOKE

• Born in Clarksdale on January 22, 1931, Sam Cooke’s family eventually relocated to Chicago when he was just two years old.
  
• From a young age, Sam showed his musical talents by singing with his siblings in a gospel group called the Singing Children.
  
• When he was only 14 years old, Sam joined the Highway Q.C.’s as their lead singer. He later became a part of the renowned gospel group Soul Stirrers and gained national recognition within the gospel circuit.
  
• However, in 1957, Sam decided to venture into secular music and created a unique blend of gospel with blues, pop, and rhythm & blues that would come to be known as soul music.
  
• With his smooth and distinctive voice, Sam quickly earned the title of “King of Soul”. His captivating vocals attracted audiences of all races, ages, and genders.
  
• Even today, he is still considered one of the most influential soul artists of all time.

Cooke, an African American,
owned his own record label and publishing company.

• Some of his most beloved soul songs are “You Send Me,” “Shake,” “A Change is Gonna Come,” and “Chain Gang.”
  
• He also has some amazing recordings in the blues genre, such as “Little Red Rooster,” “Somebody Have Mercy,” “Summertime,” and even classics like “Frankie and Johnny” and “Laughin’ and Clownin’.”

Cooke was shot to death on December 11, 1964, in Los Angeles.

Clarksdale MS Blues Trail: SUNFLOWER RIVER BLUES

• The inaugural Sunflower River Blues & Gospel Festival was established in 1988 with the aim of highlighting the rich talent of the Mississippi Delta.
  
• Set against the picturesque backdrop of the Sunflower River, musicians take to outdoor stages to showcase their skills.
  
• Initially supported by Clarksdale’s downtown merchants as a way to attract shoppers, this festival has grown in popularity thanks to its unwavering dedication towards featuring authentic blues performances from both local and international artists.
  
• In fact, it has become a must-see event for blues enthusiasts from all corners of the globe. It has also played a pivotal role in transforming Clarksdale into a hub for blues lovers.

Mark your calendars for August,
when this renowned festival takes place each year!

Clarksdale MS Blues Trail: THE NEW WORLD

• Nelson Jones, a proud member of the African American community, constructed a cozy saloon and elegant rooming house near the railroad on Issaquena Avenue.
  
• He proudly displayed a bold sign on the front of his building that read “Welcome to Nelson Jones’ New World,” hoping to catch the attention of travelers passing by on the train.

After dropping the name Nelson Jones, the area was
officially renamed as “New World,” now known as a
vibrant neighborhood in Clarksdale.

• Back in the early 1900s, this was a bustling cotton town with a famous red-light district that catered to people of all races. However, tragedy struck in the 1920s when a massive fire destroyed the red-light district, only to be replaced by new brick buildings for businesses.
  
• As the neighborhood changed, African Americans started moving into the shanties that were once occupied by railroad workers who had since moved on.
• On Saturdays, people from nearby plantations would flock to this area, known as “New World,” to enjoy lively Blues music performed on the streets, juke joints and even at the train station. But things took a turn when curfew laws were put in place. Instead of ending the festivities, everyone simply moved them to the plantations.
  
• A notable resident of this neighborhood was W.C. Handy – composer and musician extraordinaire. He lived along Issaquena Avenue and his band often played gigs at local brothels.
  
• Despite its ups and downs, this community has always been a vibrant hub of culture and entertainment.

W. C. Handy wrote,
“big nights, occasions when social and political figures
of importance were expected to
dine and dance with their favorite creole belles…
This led us to arrange and play tunes that had never been written down and
seldom sung outside the environment of the oldest profession.
Boogie-house music, it was called.”

According to the Mississippi Blues Commission:

“This neighborhood…was a breeding ground for ragtime,
blues, and jazz music in Clarksdale’s early days as a
prosperous and adventurous new cotton town,
when brothels here attracted both white and black clientele…
blues singers performed on the streets, in juke joints, and at the train station.
The demographic of the area was a literal new world
as Jews, Italians, Chinese, Syrians,
and Greeks owned various local businesses,
as did some African Americans who lived here,
including the Messenger family.”

• Messengers was among the pioneering locally owned businesses that catered to the African American community.
  
• It all began with Edward Messenger, who successfully acquired a liquor license back in 1907-1908.
  
• Fast forward to the present time, and Messengers has proudly reached its remarkable 100-year mark, now under the leadership of George Messenger, grandson of its founder Edward.

Clarksdale MS Blues Trail: WADE WALTON

Wade Walton (October 10, 1919 – January 10, 2000) was a blues musician
and local civil rights leader who chose to pursue a career as a barber
rather than as a professional entertainer.

• Wade Walton (October 10, 1919 – January 10, 2000) was a talented blues musician and an influential leader in the local civil rights movement. Despite his musical talent, Wade decided to pursue a career as a barber rather than become a professional entertainer.
  
• After attending barber college in Memphis, Wade opened his own barber shop and lounge in Clarksdale. His establishment, named “Big Six Barber Shop”, became known as a hub for musical activity in the area. Interestingly, it was built on the same spot where W.C. Handy’s house once stood.
  
• As a devoted lover of blues music, Wade never stopped playing even while running his business. He was skilled at playing the guitar, harmonica, and even the razor strop! He often treated his customers and tourists to impromptu performances right in his barber shop.
  
• Many notable musicians were among Wade’s regular clients, such as Howlin’ Wolf, Sonny Boy Williamson No.2, and Ike Turner. In fact, Walton played with Turner in the Kings of Rhythm band but chose not to join them on tour when offered the opportunity.

Through his passion for both music and community activism,
Wade Walton left a lasting impact on Clarksdale that will always
be remembered fondly by those who knew him.

• In 1958, two college students from California embarked on a journey to find talented folk and blues musicians. Their search brought them to Walton’s doorstep in Clarksdale, where they were pleasantly surprised by his musical abilities.
  
• Two years later, in 1960, Walton recorded his famous album “The Blues of Robert Curtis Smith: Clarksdale Blues” (1963) right in his own barber shop.
  
• This proved to be a successful venture for Walton as he then traveled with the students to New Jersey and recorded another album for Bluesville Records called “Shake ‘Em On Down”.
  
• Despite these accomplishments, Walton did not see much financial success from his recordings. This solidified his decision to continue working as a barber.
  
• However, in 1989, he was honored for his contributions to the music industry when he was inducted into the Clarksdale Hall of Fame.
  
• Sadly, Wade Walton passed away on January 10th, 2000 at the age of 80 while living in St. Louis. He now rests peacefully at McLaurin Gardens Cemetery in Lyon, Mississippi.
  
• His music and legacy live on through his recordings and the memories of those who had the pleasure of hearing him play in person.

Walton, a popular and respected local figure,
was also a charter member of the city’s NAACP
during the civil rights movement in the early 1960s.
Because of his leadership in the NAACP his barber shop was bombed.
Then in 1990 he lost his barber shop and lounge resulting in him recording
the song about the incident, “Leaving 4th Street.”

Clarksdale MS Blues Trail: WROX

• On June 5, 1944, the first radio station in Clarksdale, WROX, went live.
  
• While the station offered a diverse range of programs such as drama, comedy, sports, and commentary along with different genres of music, it was the blues that truly put them on the map.
  
• Famous musicians like Ike Turner, Robert Nighthawk, Sonny Boy Williamson No.2., Raymond Hill, singer-saxophonist Jackie Brenston and Doctor Ross were featured on WROX’s broadcasts.
  
• In the 1940s, Williamson’s popular program “King Biscuit Time” was added to the station’s weekday lineup.

Clarksdale MS Blues Trail: EARLY WRIGHT

• An African American man who worked as an auto mechanic found his way onto the WROX staff in 1945 as the leader of the gospel group, “Four Star Quartet”.
  
• His skills as a salesman caught the attention of the station manager, who offered him a regular show. This was a groundbreaking moment, as he became WROX’s first ever African American announcer in Mississippi.
  
• With his new position, this talented individual continued to make waves in local broadcasting under the name “Early ‘Soul Man’ Wright”.
  
• He quickly gained legendary status and his dual on-air persona as “The Soul Man” and “Brother Early Wright” allowed him to showcase both blues and R&B records and switch back to gospel seamlessly.
  
• He remained with WROX until 1998 when he passed away at the age of 84, leaving behind a powerful legacy that will never be forgotten.

 

NEW ROXY was a former cinema located in the historic New World District.
After deteriorating over a 30-year vacancy, the New Roxy is being slowly
recreated as a vibrant art, music and theater venue.

In addition, you can find more detailed information on the Mississippi Blues Markers here.

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HAPPY TRAILS!

This blog contains a lot of information for those that wish to explore above and beyond!
The Table of Contents below lists all posts.

TABLE OF CONTENTS

MISSISSIPPI BLUES TRAIL
Clarksdale Points of Interest
Greenwood Blues Markers
Greenwood Points of Interest
Indianola Blues Markers & Points of Interest
Leland Blues Markers & City Info
Natchez Blues Markers
Natchez City Legacy
Natchez Points of Interest
Old Country Store – Windsor Ruins – Port Gibson Blues Markers 
Po Monkey’s – Cleveland – Greenville blues Markers
Rolling Fork Blues Marker & Mont Helena Indian Mound
Stovall Plantation – Friar’s Point – Tunica Blues Markers
Tutwiler Blues Markers & Emmett Till Story
Vicksburg Blues Markers
Vicksburg City
Vicksburg Civil War Museum & Coca-Cola Museum
Vicksburg McRaven House
Vicksburg National Military Park
Woodville Blues Markers & City
Mississippi Delta History & Jewish History
Mississippi Indian Mounds
Mississippi Sky Lake Preserve
Mississippi Itineraries