Delta Region Blues Trail – Mississippi Blues Trail

Delta Region Blues Trail
PO MONKEY’s JUKE JOINT
CLEVELAND, MS GRAMMY MUSEUM
GREENVILLE, MS & WINTERVILLE MOUNDS

• Juke joints were popular spots in the Delta region as a secular haven for people to socialize, dance and forget about their troubles.
• But one juke joint in particular has survived into the 21st century and has become a must-visit destination for blues enthusiasts from all over the world – Po’ Monkey’s.
• Located in Mississippi, Po’ Monkey’s is a unique place that stands out in the middle of a field off the road.
  
• You can already imagine the fun times and wild parties that took place here back in its heyday.
  
• And let me tell you, getting there is an adventure in itself. Driving through the countryside, with rolling hills and picturesque landscapes, sets the mood for what’s to come.

If you’re planning on visiting Cleveland and/or Greenville anytime soon,
don’t miss out on the opportunity to stop by Po’ Monkey’s.
But that’s not all these cities have to offer –
be sure to check out other popular sites like the Grammy Museum,
which will take you on a journey through the history of music.

What exactly makes Po’ Monkey’s so special?
Willie “Po’ Monkey” Seaberry lived here, worked as a farmer by day, and club operator at night.

Delta Region Blues Trail: Po Monkey’s in Merigold, MS

• First of all, it has a rich history dating back to the 1960s when it was just a simple shack turning into a lively juke joint at night.
• Its owner Willie Seaberry, also known as “Po’ Monkey,” had a passion for blues music and creating an inclusive space where everyone could come together and have a good time.
• Meanwhile, it had the character of a typical rural juke joint, furnished with a jukebox, a pool table, beer posters stapled to the walls, and Christmas lights strung across the walls and ceiling frequented by locals.
  
• The Mississippi Blues Trail marker No. 79 was originally dedicated June 22, 2009, and revised October 26, 2022.
  
• Today, even though Willie Seaberry passed away July 12, 2016, at the age of 75, his legacy lives on through this beloved establishment that still attracts visitors from all over. 

Juke Joints AKA “jookhouses” were not just about listening to great blues music,
drinking g and dancing until your feet hurt. They were about community, tradition, and experiencing something authentic.

Delta Region Blues Trail: Side Note:

• Recently, a group of students from Delta State University embarked on a journey to find some “authentic” juke joints in Mississippi.
  
• Their adventure caught the attention of the New York Times and renowned photographer Annie Leibovitz!
  
• This iconic juke joint has been around for decades and has gained popularity due to its unique history. It was even featured in Mississippi native Birney Imes’ book “Juke Joint” back in 1990.
• Additionally, another book by Will Jacks is “Po’ Monkey’s: Portrait of a Juke Joint”.

It’s incredible to think about the origins of blues music and how it evolved from informal gatherings in jookhouses AKA juke joints. These house parties, fish fries, and Saturday night suppers were truly the birthplace of a genre that has touched the hearts of millions. Tenants would transform their houses on plantations by clearing the furniture from the largest room and spreading sawdust on the floor to prepare for a gathering of music, dancing, and gambling. And let’s not forget Muddy Waters, who left an indelible mark on the blues world by running his own juke joint in Mississippi.

It just goes to show that sometimes the most unexpected places
can produce the greatest treasures.
Keep listening to those old blues records,
you never know where they might take you!

• However, the 1930s brought coin operated phonographs into the juke joints that eventually became known as “jukeboxes”.
  
• While jukeboxes may have replaced live musicians in juke joints, it later introduced deejays.
  
• Even as clubs and venues began to pop up in towns and cities, the tradition of the juke joint remained a vital part of blues culture.
• The spirit and energy of these lively venues were kept alive through the songs about juke joints performed by blues artists.
  
• It’s wonderful to see that over a century later, Clarksdale continues to honor this rich history with its annual Juke Joint Festival.

Delta Region Blues Trail: DOCKERY FARMS in Cleveland, MS

• Dockery Farms was founded in 1895 by William Alfred “Will” Dockery (1865-1936) and consisted of thousands of acres. 
• At one time it was considered a self-sufficient town housing four hundred tenant families, and included an elementary school, churches, and a cemetery.
• Most of the tenants were African Americans in pursuit of work.
• To accommodate the workers there were picnic grounds for the workers, and a commissary that sold dry goods, furniture, and groceries.
• Other services available were post and telegraph offices, its own currency, resident doctor, railroad depot, ferry, blacksmith shop, and a cotton gin.
• Dockery was known for how well he treated his tenants and in return they resided here for long periods of time.

Delta Region Blues Trail:
One of the most influential blues artists of the time,
Charley Patton (c. 1891–1934), called Dockery Farms home.
His parents and four siblings had moved to Dockery in the early 1900s.
Charley, inspired by guitarist Henry Sloan, decided to pursue a music career.
Some of those influenced by Patton were
Howlin’ Wolf, Willie Brown, Tommy Johnson, and Roebuck “Pops” Staples.
So much blues history has been traced back to
Charley Patton and Dockery Farms that is has been called “the wellspring of Delta blues.”

• In 1929 Patton began recording songs, many of which were about life in the Delta and at Dockery.
• Although he travelled the Delta playing the blues, Dockery was one his main stopping points. 
• Often called the “Father of the Delta Blues,” Patton died of mitral valve disorder on April 28, 1934, near Indianola.

Delta Region Blues Trail: CHRISMAN STREET in Cleveland, MS

• Cleveland’s main hub for African Americans was none other than Chrisman Street.
  
• This bustling street was the heart of all activity, from business to social gatherings. It was home to various nightclubs, such as the renowned Harlem Inn, as well as churches, hotels, cafes, stores, and more!
  
• As the cotton industry flourished, many farm workers and sharecroppers flocked to the area to work on plantations. And when they needed a break from their hard work or some retail therapy, they knew exactly where to go – Chrisman Street.
• Charley Patton and his partner Willie Brown were well-known individuals in Cleveland, much like the many others who were loved by the city.
  
• Their protégé, Howlin’ Wolf, as well as other legends such as Muddy Waters, Sonny Boy Williamson No. 2, Ike Turner, Fats Domino, B. B. King, and Bobby Bland could often be seen performing at clubs on Chrisman Street.

W. C. Handy recognized and wrote about the significance of Cleveland’s Delta region and its unique and valuable music scene.

Delta Region Blues Trail: GOSPEL AND THE BLUES 

Did you know that gospel and blues music have a lot in common?

• They both have their roots in juke joints, where musicians would perform songs from both genres.
  
• And here’s an interesting fact: by simply changing some of the lyrics in their songs, these musicians could seamlessly switch between gospel and blues.

How cool is that?

Many Mississippi blues artists also recorded gospel;
B.B. King, Charley Patton, Son House, Muddy Waters, Memphis Minnie, just to name a few.
Gatemouth Moore and Pops Staples, became preachers/gospel singers instead of blues artists,
leaving the blues behind.

• Reverend C.L. Franklin, the father of Aretha Franklin and a renowned preacher in Cleveland, had a wide range of musical influences. He enjoyed listening to both religious and blues artists like Charley Patton and Tommy Johnson. His unique vocal style even inspired Blues legend Bobby Bland.
  
• In 1958, Reverend C.L. Franklin had the honor of officiating at the wedding of famous musician B.B. King.
  
• The Franklin family moved around quite a bit, from the Delta to Memphis, Buffalo, NY, and eventually settling in Detroit.
  
• Reverend C.L. Franklin was known for his powerful sermons at the New Bethel Baptist Church in Detroit, many of which were recorded. Despite his role as a preacher, he also appreciated the blues genre, as he once said himself: “I always liked the blues.”
  
• Aretha Franklin followed in her father’s footsteps by honing her musical talent at church alongside her sisters Erma and Carolyn. Eventually they transitioned into soul singers and left their mark on music history.
  
• Not only did Reverend C.L. Franklin have an influence on his daughter’s career, but he also impacted other musicians such as Sam Cooke from Clarksdale who went from singing gospel with the Soul Stirrers to becoming a successful rhythm and blues artist before ultimately becoming a pop icon.

B.B. King once said,
“I’ve heard that black folks are supposed to have this big conflict
between singing for the world and singing for God.
Some of them surely are divided. I am not …
I believe all music talent comes from God as a way to express beauty and human emotion”
on the radio in the 1940s where he sang gospel.

Delta Region Blues Trail: GRAMMY MUSEUM® Mississippi in Cleveland, MS

• Opening its doors in 2016, the GRAMMY Museum® in Cleveland, MS is a fantastic sister site to the one located in Los Angeles. Here, visitors can dive into the rich history of the Grammys while also exploring a diverse range of music genres and learning about the process of producing music.
  
• One of the highlights at this museum is its focus on Mississippi artists and their immense impact on various musical styles. The region’s influence is honored through displays and exhibits that showcase the talents of these artists. It’s no surprise that many of them have been recognized with multiple Grammy wins, including B.B. King with sixteen awards and Muddy Waters with seven.
• Additionally, legends such as Elvis Presley, Robert Johnson, Sam Cooke, John Lee Hooker, Bo Diddley, Pinetop Perkins, Hank Jones, Muddy Waters (again!), B.B. King (again!), and Honeyboy Edwards have all received lifetime achievement awards – an impressive list indeed!

In 1960, Leontyne Price became the first person from Mississippi to win a Grammy.
Throughout her successful career, she went on to receive a whopping total of 19 GRAMMYs.

Over a span of several years, Mississippi proudly celebrated its rich musical legacy through the creation of various tributes: 

In 2006, the Mississippi Blues Trail was launched.
Two years later in 2008, the B.B. King Museum & Delta Interpretive Center opened its doors in Indianola.
And in 2010, the Mississippi Country Music Trail came to life. Together, these attractions showcase and honor the state’s diverse musical roots.

Mississippi had official state welcome signs proclaiming, “The Birthplace of American Music.”

Delta Region Blues Trail: THE ENLIGHTMENT OF W.C. HANDY in Cleveland, MS

• In 1903, W.C. Handy, often called the “Father of the Blues,” arrived in the Delta with a dream to become a famous composer and producer like John Phillip Sousa. He wanted to write marches, not blues music.
  
• Handy’s plan was to showcase his orchestra of skilled musicians in Cleveland, but unfortunately they failed to impress the audience. At the dancers’ request, Handy gave up his spot on stage to a humble three-piece band with local flair.
  
• The band consisted of Prince McCoy on a battered guitar, a mandolin player, and a bassist. As soon as they began playing, the crowd went wild and started tossing coins at their feet. This experience opened Handy’s eyes to what people truly wanted to hear.
  
• Another pivotal moment for Handy was witnessing Robert Johnson’s performance on a train station platform in Tutwiler, Mississippi. This event sparked something within him and inspired him to compose music.
  
• From these events, we can see how Handy’s path changed from wanting to be a marching band leader to becoming one of the most influential figures in blues music history.

As Handy wrote in an early manuscript of his book, Father of the Blues,
“My own enlightenment came in Cleveland Mississippi.”

Delta Region Blues Trail: NELSON STREET in GREENVILLE, MS 

• In the 1940s and ’50s, Nelson Street in Greenville was a bustling hub for African American businesses and entertainment. This street was home to a variety of popular night spots where blues musicians from all over the area would perform, attracting attention from record companies on the lookout for new talent.
• One of the most well-known establishments on Nelson Street was the Casablanca, an upscale restaurant and lounge that proudly advertised itself as “For Colored Only.” Other popular clubs included the Flowing Fountain and the Playboy Club.
  
• In 1928, two talented performers, Louis Jordan and Winchester Davis, came together to put on a show in Greenville. And in 1951, Willie Love paid tribute to Nelson Street with his recording of “Nelson Street Blues.”
  
• As the blues scene continued to thrive in the 1950s, other notable venues such as Henry T’s Pool Room, Silver Dollar Café, and Blue Note also featured live music performances. Even disc jockey “Rocking” Eddie Williams got in on the action with his record store located right on Nelson Street.
  
• One of the most successful blues artists to come out of this era was Little Milton who honored the Flowing Fountain show club with his hit song “Annie Mae’s Café” released in 1987.
  

It’s clear that Nelson Street left its mark on both music history and African American culture during this time period.

Delta Region Blues Trail: FREEDOM VILLAGE in GREENVILLE, MS 

• After two elderly African Americans were discovered frozen to death in their dilapidated shack, local activists took action by forming the Poor People’s Conference. Their goal was to raise awareness about the dire social conditions in their community and to provide a safe haven for displaced African American agricultural workers. 
• In 1966, Freedom City was established when ninety-four individuals relocated to a 400-acre site. Initially known as “Freedom Village,” this self-sustaining community became fully incorporated in 1970. And in a moment that would go down in history, the first Mississippi Delta Blues Festival was held at Freedom Village on October 21, 1978. 
• What made this music festival truly special was its roots in the Civil Rights movement. The performers were all traditional blues musicians, using only acoustic instruments and performing on a flatbed trailer stage surrounded by an audience of 3,500 people.
• Over time, this festival gained popularity and attracted tens of thousands of visitors from all over the world – making it the largest event of its kind in the South. Eventually,  expanding it’s performers to include electric blues pioneers Willie Dixon, John Lee Hooker, and Muddy Waters, blues rockers Johnny Winter and Stevie Ray Vaughan, and soul-blues stars such as Bobby “Blue” Bland, Little Milton, Johnnie Taylor, Tyrone Davis, Bobby Rush, and Lynn White. 

The festival was intended, in Charles Bannerman’s (one of the founders) words,
to “honor an art form that was born in the Mississippi Delta cottonfields and
was birthed by workers and a way of life whose hardships we must never forget.”

Delta Region Blues Trail: PRINCE McCOY (no Blues Marker) in Greenville, MS

Prince Albert McCoy was a talented string band musician from America, known for his skill on the guitar and violin.

• Born in St. Joseph, Louisiana, he moved to Greenville, Mississippi during his childhood.
  
• Despite his lesser-known early career, it has recently been discovered that he played an important role in the development of blues and popular music.
  
• In the year 1903 in Cleveland, Mississippi, W.C. Handy was amazed as he watched a trio led by McCoy perform. The audience threw money at their feet while they played. He described them as being led by a long-legged chocolate boy and consisting of just three instruments – a beat-up guitar, a mandolin, and a worn-out bass.
  
• Handy even gave up his own spot on stage to this group at the request of the dancers. This experience sparked Handy’s journey towards fame, earning him the title “Father of Blues.”

According to an article published in 1909 by the Vicksburg Herald,
Prince McCoy’s band had gained widespread popularity throughout the Delta region for their performances at dances and community events.
Apart from playing with his band, McCoy also showcased his musical talent through solo performances and duets on the violin.

• Prior to 1927, he relocated to Winston-Salem, NC and performed in the “Maxey Medicine Shows” for at least ten years.
  
• Unfortunately, he passed away there on February 4, 1968, at the age of 85 without gaining recognition for his musical talents. Regrettably, there are no known recordings of his music.

Unfortunately, McCoy’s legacy remained anonymous maybe because Handy omitted Prince’s name
from the 1941 book “Father of the Blues”, where he only referred to McCoy as
“a long-legged chocolate boy.”

In addition, you can find more detailed information on the Mississippi Blues Markers here.

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HAPPY TRAILS!

This blog contains a lot of information for those that wish to explore above and beyond!
The Table of Contents list all posts below.

TABLE OF CONTENTS:

MISSISSIPPI BLUES TRAIL
Clarksdale Blues Markers
Clarksdale Points of Interest
Greenwood Blues Markers
Greenwood Points of Interest
Indianola Blues Markers & Points of Interest
Leland Blues Markers & City Info
Natchez Blues Markers
Natchez City Legacy
Natchez Points of Interest
Old Country Store – Windsor Ruins – Port Gibson Blues Markers 
Po Monkey’s – Cleveland – Greenville Blues Markers
Rolling Fork Blues Marker & Mont Helena Indian Mound
Stovall Plantation – Friar’s Point – Tunica Blues Markers
Tutwiler Blues Markers & Emmett Till Story
Vicksburg Blues Markers
Vicksburg City
Vicksburg Civil War Museum & Coca-Cola Museum
Vicksburg McRaven House
Vicksburg National Military Park
Woodville Blues Markers & City
Mississippi Delta History & Jewish History
Mississippi Indian Mounds
Mississippi Sky Lake Preserve
Mississippi Itineraries